Mar Plata San Pancho

Decor is nonchalant yet sophisticated and so, come to think of it, is the waitstaff. Impressive second-story digs have views of the sea as well as a celestial seasoning of stars on the ceiling in the form of tin lamps from Guadalajara. Dark-blue and deep terra-cotta walls juxtapose nicely; the huge space is saved from looking industrial by innovative installations and fixtures. Heavy old wood doors are transformed to tabletops, chairs are mismatched, and floors are poured of untreated cement. Co-owner and chef Amadine Darmstaedter’s recipes wed traditional Argentine meats with updated Continental cuisine in a happy transcontinental marriage. Portions are smallish, and entrées exclude sides.